Garden Strawberry: Care and Growing Guide (2024)

Insights, advice, suggestions, feedback and comments from experts

The plants commonly known as garden strawberries are actually cultivars of a hybrid plant called Fragaria x ananassa. This hybrid was first bred in France during the mid-1700s by crossing a North American strawberry species called Fragaria virginiana with a Chilean strawberry species called Fragaria chiloensis. The resulting hybrid, Fragaria x ananassa, became the basis for most garden strawberry cultivars that we know today [[1]].

Technically speaking, strawberries are not true berries with internal seeds. Instead, they are classified as "aggregate accessory fruits" because their seeds are located on the outside of the fleshy portion of the fruit [[1]].

Garden strawberries are easy-to-grow perennial fruiting plants that can provide ample harvests for many years. They have a low-growing and spreading habit, with deep-green, ridged leaves and diminutive white flowers. The fruits grow from the ends of delicate leafless shoots. While individual plants are not particularly fast-growing, they quickly spread outward with runners. Under favorable conditions, each strawberry plant can produce up to one quart of strawberries per season. The fruiting period for garden strawberries typically starts in late spring and extends into early summer, and even into fall, depending on the variety. In warmer regions, they may begin producing fruit as early as early spring. New plants should be started in spring in cooler climates, while in warmer areas, they can be started in either spring or fall [[1]].

To successfully plant garden strawberries, it is generally recommended to choose a rich and moist soil. The plants should be spaced 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for the quick spreading of runners. In colder regions (zone 6 and further north), it is best to plant strawberries outside during the spring months to ensure they are well-rooted by the following year. In warmer regions (zone 7 and farther south), strawberries can be planted in the fall and will produce edible fruit by the following spring. Mulching between plants after planting helps to keep the soil temperature cool, retain moisture, deter weeds, and keep the fruit above the soil. Straw is a traditional mulch option for strawberries. It is important to avoid using black plastic as mulch since it raises the soil temperature, and strawberries prefer cool soil for optimal fruit production. It is also recommended not to plant strawberries where tomatoes, peppers, or eggplants have previously grown, as these plants are susceptible to verticillium wilt, which can affect strawberries [[1]].

When it comes to caring for garden strawberries, they ideally need eight hours of full sun per day, although they can tolerate 6 to 10 hours of sunlight daily. The plants prefer soil that is rich and loamy, with a pH between 5.8 and 6.2. It is important to plant strawberries so that the roots are covered in soil but the crown is exposed to fresh air and light. Overwatering should be avoided, but providing 1 to 2 inches of water per week is recommended, especially during the fruit formation period. The ideal temperature range for garden strawberries is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, although they can tolerate temperatures as low as 22 degrees Fahrenheit if protected from frost. High humidity can encourage the development and spread of powdery mildew, so providing adequate air circulation is important. Fertilizing with compost-rich, organic soil and applying a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) at planting time is recommended. It is important not to over-fertilize, as this can lead to excessive leaf growth and poor flowering. Additionally, late-season fertilization should be avoided in colder climates to prevent new growth that may be damaged by frost [[1]].

There are different varieties of garden strawberries, categorized by their fruiting habits. June-bearing strawberries produce one large crop per year during a two- to three-week period, usually around June. Everbearing strawberries do not continually bear fruit but produce buds when the days are long, resulting in two main harvests—one in June and another in early fall. Day-neutral strawberries produce fruit throughout the growing season, but in smaller quantities than June-bearing plants. They do not rely on day length for fruit production but instead form fruit based on temperature. However, when temperatures exceed 75 degrees Fahrenheit, production stops. Everbearing and day-neutral strawberries have a longer season of harvest, but the fruits are usually somewhat smaller than June-bearers. Day-neutral varieties typically produce only a few runners [[1]].

When it comes to harvesting garden strawberries, they will begin to produce fruit over a period of about three weeks in late spring, although the fruit may appear earlier in warmer climates. Strawberries are sweetest when fully ripened on the plants. For most varieties, it is recommended to leave the berries on the plant for a day or two after they are fully colored. Strawberries bruise easily, so it is important to be gentle when pulling the fruit from the plants. It is best to snap or cut the stem directly above the berry rather than pulling on the berry itself. Harvested berries should be kept in a cool, shady location [[1]].

Pruning practices for garden strawberries vary depending on the type of strawberry. June-bearing strawberries produce runners that should be left in place, while everbearing and day-neutral varieties produce only a few runners that produce inferior fruit. On day-neutral and everbearing varieties, it is recommended to snip off these runners. During the first year, picking off blossoms from the plants can significantly increase the yield in the second year, as the plant will devote energy to developing healthy roots instead of fruit in the first year [[1]].

Garden strawberries can be propagated by allowing the plants to naturally spread through stem runners that root themselves in the surrounding soil. These runners can be snipped and the resulting plantlets carefully dug up and transplanted to a new location. Pinning the runners down into the soil can help expedite the rooting process. Early fall is generally the best time to dig up and move these plantlets [[1]].

In colder climates, it is important to protect strawberry plants during winter by mulching over them. This helps prevent injury to the crowns. When the temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, the bed should be covered with several inches of straw, pine needles, or shredded leaves. It is crucial to use a mulch that can be easily removed in the spring [[1]].

Strawberries are susceptible to various pests and diseases. Common problems include leaf spot, root rots, fruit rot diseases (such as anthracnose), gray mold, viruses, and sun scorch. Common pests that can affect strawberries include tarnished plant bugs, mites, aphids, leafrollers, slugs, nematodes, and strawberry weevils. Protecting the strawberry patch with netting can help prevent bird damage. It is recommended to seek the least toxic solutions possible when treating diseases and pests. Many cultivars are bred to be resistant to common diseases, so consulting with a local expert for recommendations on the best varieties for your region is advisable [[1]].

If you don't have outdoor space or have naturally alkaline soil, growing garden strawberries in containers can be a good option. Containers should be filled with compost-enriched quality potting soil. Garden strawberries grown in containers can be replanted in late summer and moved to a cool, protected place during colder months, such as an unheated basem*nt or garage [[1]].